You might only look up at your roofline occasionally, but you’d quickly notice if anything was out of place. Fascias and soffits help to enhance the appearance of your home, providing a neat trim that sits below your roof.
They also play a practical role in keeping your roof tiles in place, and preventing damp – which ultimately protects the air quality in your home, as well as its structural integrity.
Our own fascias are designed to be as easy to fit as possible, so if you bring in a tradesperson to do it for you, the job should be quick and affordable.
Or you can save more money by doing it yourself, of course – but it’s important to follow the instructions to the letter, otherwise your boards might not protect your home and you could invalidate the manufacturer’s warranty. It’s also worth enlisting the help of a professional if you’re not experienced or confident working at heights.
Read our installation guide below to find out how to fit fascias and soffits.
What we'll cover:
When to replace fascia and soffits
Fascias and soffits can last for years depending on the type of material they’re made from and how well they’re looked after. As we explain in our guide What’s the Best Material for Fascia Boards? timber and uPVC have a similar lifespan of around 20 years. One of the key differences is that timber requires regular maintenance – usually painting or applying a wood preserver – to keep it in good condition.
You might not need to replace your fascias and soffits at all during the time you live at a property but it’s important to check them regularly if you know they’re old or you’ve had them for more than 10 years. Timber fascias are prone to damp, warping, rot and insect damage if they’re not well-maintained, so look for visible signs of damage, as well as issues inside your house such as damp.
Removing old fascias and soffits
Taking down your old fascias and soffits is relatively straightforward but, again, you need to be careful working at height, and pry them away gently. Damaged timber fascia boards might not come off cleanly, so be sure to remove any remnants and dirt that’s accumulated. Use a pry bar to remove the fascias and soffits, and a claw hammer to take out nails in the rafter.
Alternatively, you can use uPVC capping board which is designed to go over old timber fascias and give them a fresh new look. Please note they can only be fitted to sound, rot-free timber.
Considerations before installation
As with any home improvement job, preparation is key. Getting someone to help you is always handy, especially when you’re handling longer boards, and a second pair of eyes will ensure that everything is fitted neatly.
You don’t need any specialist tools – just a sturdy ladder or platform, a hammer, saw, tape measure, spirit level plus protective clothing like gloves, face mask and a hard hat.
Below, you’ll find guides to installing different types of fascia boards and soffits.
Step by step: How to fit 18mm fascia boards (Euroboards)
This type of fascia is popular because it’s designed to be fixed directly to the rafters, so you don’t need a timber substrate.
Step 1: Check rafters are level
Before starting the installation, double-check that the rafters are level to avoid any misalignment.
Step 2: Fix your fascia boards
They should be spaced at a maximum of 600mm centres, and secured using 2 x 65mm A4 stainless steel fixing nails per rafter. The head of the fixing nail can be colour-matched to your fascia to offer a seamless finish.
Please note: When using foiled or laminated boards, make sure they are fitted in lengths of less than 2.5m. This allows for expansion, especially on south-facing elevations
Step 3: Cut the trims
When using white corner trims, joint trims, or angle trims, cut the boards back by 5mm on each edge to account for expansion. The manufacturer’s instructions will tell you what type of saw to use – it’s normally a uVPC saw. For laminated boards, this dimension increases to 8mm per edge. Secure all trims by glueing one side, leaving the other side free for expansion or contraction.
Step 4: Secure the guttering
Attach the guttering to every third rafter. Given the thickness of these boards, they can accommodate extra fixings securely at different points.
Step by step: How to fit 9mm soffit boards (Capping board)
Step 1: Check structural timber
Check the structural timber or existing fascia and soffit are free from damage and rot, before applying wood preserver or paint. Make sure it’s dried before you set to work.
Step 2: Fix your fascia boards
They should be spaced at a maximum of 600mm centres, and secured using 2 x 65mm A4 stainless steel fixing nails per rafter. The head of the fixing nail can be colour-matched to your fascia to offer a seamless finish.
Please note: When using foiled or laminated boards, make sure they are fitted in lengths of less than 2.5m. This allows for expansion, especially on south-facing elevations
Step 3: Cut the trims
When using white corner trims, joint trims, or angle trims, cut the boards back by 5mm on each edge to account for expansion. The manufacturer’s instructions will tell you what type of saw to use – it’s normally a uVPC saw. For laminated boards, this dimension increases to 8mm per edge. Secure all trims by glueing one side, leaving the other side free for expansion or contraction.
Step 4: Secure the guttering
Attach the guttering to every third rafter. Given the thickness of these boards, they can accommodate extra fixings securely at different points.
Step by step: How to fit 9mm utility soffit boards
Step 1: Check structural timber
Check the structural timber or existing fascia and soffit are free from damage and rot, before applying wood preserver or paint. Make sure it’s dried before you set to work.
Step 2: Fix the utility boards
Utility boards ranging from 100mm-605mm in width should be fixed at a maximum of 600mm centres.
Step 3: Make sure there’s enough ventilation
Roofs need to be ventilated to prevent a build-up of moisture. If your roof has a pitch of more than 15˚, consider the Eurosoffit Ventilated board available in widths between 150mm-605mm.
This provides the necessary 10mm air gap.
Circular soffit vents can be installed on any utility or hollow soffit board
Alternatively, you could choose the rigid soffit ventilator to join the Euroboard with the utility boards.
Another option is over fascia ventilation. Simply position the utility board on the ogee or Euroboard leg. Secure it to the soffit batten using 30mm A4 stainless steel fixing pins.
Step by step: How to fit 9mm hollow soffit boards
These alternative soffit boards come in widths of 300mm and 100mm, and can be installed at right angles or parallel to full replacement boards, offering an attractive tongue and groove effect. Please note, hollow soffits are exclusively designed for specific applications and are not suitable as external cladding or fascia systems. If you don’t use them correctly, you’ll invalidate the warranty.
Steps 1 and 2: Follow the same steps as the previous section
Step 3: Make sure there’s enough ventilation
If no ventilation is required, the hollow soffit can rest on the Euroboard leg and be fixed to the soffit batten with 25mm cladding pins. Where ventilation is needed, ventilated hollow soffit boards are available and installed in the same way.
Circular soffit vents can be installed on any utility or hollow soffit board.
Soffit vents can connect the Euroboard fascia and hollow soffit board. When the hollow soffit board runs lengthwise, the first plank's location leg should be removed, ensuring it fits snugly into the soffit ventilator.
And finally
Installing fascia and soffit boards requires attention to detail and following the manufacturer’s guidelines carefully. The quality of your installation improves the appearance of your property and helps you to avoid costly repairs.
Take a look at Eurocell’s full range of fascia and soffit boards.