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Specifiers FAQ

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Window, door and conservatory FAQs

There is no specific number as we mix it ourselves. The nearest match is 1015, but when placed next to our cream profile you will see a slight difference.
Treat dual-colour profile as full woodgrain and fully reinforce as per the Eurocell fabrication manual.
Yes. However, our old product – coded EWS 320 – had to be stuck to the surface of the glass units using double-sided tape along the whole length of the bar. This meant that the glass had to be cleaned using methylated spirit before application and the frames had to be factory glazed because the bars had to be cut precisely to size. This was very time consuming and expensive. By contrast, our new range of astragal bars are all clipped onto the units and only require tapes at cruciform joints or on retaining clips on long bars. The range of end caps available for these products means that, in most cases, the bars no longer need to be milled and can simply be square cut.
This problem is commonly caused by the use of friction stays with the incorrect stack height. Most people tend to use a “standard” hinge with a 13mm stack height. These are fine for our 60mm frames, while the Eurologik system uses 17mm. Clearly, the wrong hinge will not position the closed sash correctly. This is particularly the case on side-hung casements.
There are a couple of common causes. Firstly, the welder plate temperatures should be checked with a good quality digital thermostat to ensure the correct temperature is being achieved. You should not rely totally on the machine gauge as the temperature probes, etc. can malfunction. If the weld burns it will show a dark line down the centre.

The other common cause of this fault is contamination of the weld by failing to peel back the protective tapes from the profile cut edges prior to welding.
Although it is common practice not to do this, it is obvious that the tape melts back with the profile and contaminates the finished weld when the machine closes the joint. Indeed, the requirement for the tape to be peeled back is contained in the BPF Guidelines for welding.
Yes. While we recommend that the slider is on the outside as this achieves a better weather rating, it is possible to use either the inner or outer track for the slider. When the patio is made in dual colour, the slider should always be on the inside to avoid exposing white trims on the coloured face. When the slider is inside, it’s important to remember to fit the EWS 453 air dam at the top and bottom where the sashes meet.

On the subject of patio doors, we are often asked if the sliders must be in the centre of three and four-pane door assemblies. In fact you can put the sliders wherever you like, in the middle or at either end. If the meeting style supplied in the kit is used as a coupler between the fixed panes, then the cutting constants remain the same.
No. All woodgrain or coloured foils have an acrylic layer on the outer face to provide UV stability. Superglue will attack this layer over time and cause it to blister away from the pigmented foil.
The problem is usually caused by splits, cracks or other breakdown of the sealant joints. The advice provided by our sealant providers is that the minimum width and depth of the seal joint should be 5mm and, in general, the depth of the seal should be twice its width. It’s also worth noting that the sealant will not bond correctly in temperatures below 5°C. If the surface is wet or damp, a specialist sealant (e.g. Silversil MSP) should be used.
The foils themselves are finished with an acrylic layer which gives the surface its gloss, but more importantly acts as an ultraviolet barrier. Should this layer be damaged, the foil will have a dull appearance and will fade in sunlight. On no account should any abrasive cleaners or solvents be used. Normal, everyday cleaning should be done using only soapy water. If you have a particular problem, we can help with information direct from the foil suppliers. Just give our Technical team a call on 0300 333 6525.

Roofline FAQs

Yes, we have a range of blue white products, which include capping boards, utility boards, cloaking fillets, quadrants and D mouldings.
Yes, we have a variety of fascia and soffit boards in cream, as well as cream rainwater products which can be supplied to order. All are precisely colour-matched to our window profiles.
You need to fix all fascia boards at two positions at the recommended fixing centres (600mm on Euroboards and at every rafter for capping board) – one fixing is not sufficient. You should use the stainless steel marine grade A4316 fixing pins that we supply in our branches. Do not use standard steel pins as they will corrode, resulting in staining on the surface of the boards.
Yes, you will need to leave a 5mm gap between the white boards and an 8mm gap for woodgrain boards. When you fit the trims, be sure to glue only one side of the trim to the boards to allow expansion to take place.
The popular choices are golden oak and rosewood, which we offer on many of our profiles. We have our standard white and blue white colours in the PVC-U finish and, more recently, we have added our own cream colour. To give the products the woodgrain look we apply Renolit foils to the profiles, enabling us to offer black ash along with the rosewood and golden oak options. We have also launched three new options, which are Irish oak, grey woodgrain and white ash on selected products in our roofline and window trim ranges.
This is a very important area of the roof structure and the problem is very common. We suggest that you remove the bottom two rows of roof tiles and cut back the felt to a point where it is in sound condition, usually approximately 100mm. Then you need to fit a PVC-U felt tray product, which is available from our branches. This replaces the rotted felt and ensures that any moisture running down the roof beneath the tiles will drain away into the guttering. Then re-fit the bottom two rows of tiles on top of the felt tray. We offer this product with a ventilator and also with a ventilator and bird comb to ensure that you get full ventilation while preventing birds from entering the roof space.
You could easily install a PVC-U underground drainage pipe system to eliminate this problem. You would connect the bottom of the down-pipe to a drain connector and run a length of underground drainage pipework to a nearby surface water drain or soak-away. We have a selection of fittings and pipes suitable for this project, which are stocked at many of our branches.
Yes, you can order a ‘flat pack’ canopy from any Eurocell branch. Delivery is usually within 48 hours and you can choose a ‘lean-to’ or a pitched roof version. They are self-assembly and are very fast and easy to erect. They feature very realistic individual slate-effect tiles for the roof, with a white square frame to support the roof panels.
It’s likely that you have installed these ‘foiled’ products in the same way you would install plain white products, which is incorrect. When installing the white products we recommend that you leave a 5mm gap to allow for expansion of the boards (roofline and cladding). With foiled options, such as rosewood, the gap should be increased to 8mm to allow for the extra expansion that occurs with these darker boards. The boards are sold in 5-metre lengths but our recommendation is that they are fitted in maximum lengths of 2.5.metres to allow for the increased expansion. More joints means more expansion gaps.
When you collect your boards from your local Eurocell branch, pick up some of our super-glue products. Apply this to the trims in question, ON ONE SIDE ONLY. When you place the trims on to the boards you must only glue them to one of the boards you are joining, NOT BOTH. If you glue the trim to both boards you will restrict the movement of the boards when they expand and before too long the trims will crack. If you prefer to nail the trims to the boards the same principal applies, fix to one board only.
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